In the prestige sector, core skin care product sales, including facial cleansers, creams and serums, grew between 15% and 24% in 2021 versus 2020, according to The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. Clinical skin care brands contributed the highest revenue gains to the category. In fact, clinical surpassed natural as the largest brand type in skin care, based on revenue; it now accounts for 34% of skin care category sales in the US while natural brands account for 28% of category sales, according to NPD.
Mass market skin care sales are up, too. Skin care sales at US multi-outlets rose 8.1% to $4.7 billion for the 52 weeks ended March 20, 2022, according to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. While facial anti-aging product sales rose just 2.4%, facial moisturizers recorded a much larger gain—sales jumped 25.1%, pushing category totals to nearly $1 billion (see chart).
Consumers are more discerning about the skin care products they use. Today’s labs are in perpetual motion; R&D experts are tasked with expanding their product rosters and reformulating existing products with powerhouse ingredients and franchise-building components.
Origins says its chemists have “elevated” the brand’s popular mushroom-infused franchise with Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Soothing Treatment Lotion. Mega-Mushroom Treatment Lotion is the brand’s No. 1 product globally. The new formula strengthens skin’s barrier to protect against external irritants. Over time, pores are visibly reduced, skin’s texture is smoothed, and dullness is reduced so that skin appears radiant and calm for more stabilized, healthy-looking skin.
The new 100% vegan/97% naturally-derived product contains new Plantmunity Technology, which features adaptogenic licorice root with glycyrrhetinic acid. The Molecular Mushroom Complex—featured throughout the Mega-Mushroom sub-franchise—helps visibly soothe and neutralize the look of red, irritated skin. The Treatment Lotion has 10x more reishi (the mushroom of immortality), according to Origins. That, along with the fermented chaga, helps counter reactive irritation, so skin looks visibly stronger as irritation is quickly soothed.
According to Rocky Graziose, PhD, associate director, skin biology and bioactives, the calming benefits of mushrooms help reduce the look of redness and irritation while the licorice root helps “build skin’s innate defense system so even when skin is challenged, it is strong and resilient—and able to resist assaults that may compromise its barrier.”
The lotion is designed to be used morning and evening after cleansing and before serum and moisturizer. Origins says it delivers 29% strengthened skin barrier after four hours; two times faster visible redness reduction; and irritation is reduced by 27% for stronger, more resilient skin.
“Our research has only scratched the surface of plants and active natural ingredients that are good for the skin,” Graziose said. “This category of adaptogenic plants, like licorice and astragalus, has proven to have a value in our skin. If we are able to harness some of the unique plant chemistry from the planet and leverage it in skin care, we can influence how skin behaves in response to stress or the passage of time.”
Cosmetic chemists have understood for decades the skin care power of retinol. In fact, this year marks its 75th anniversary. But according to data from Olay, more than 50% of women who try retinol give up after less than one month of use. Their reasons for quitting range from cost to irritation to a lack of visible results.
Olay has revamped its retinol in its Olay Regenerist Retinol24+Peptide Night collection. Key ingredients include a retionoid complex—blend of retinol, retinyl propionate and glycerin—which is designed to hydrate skin while it brightens and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, pores and dark spots. The formulation also includes niacinamide and vitamin B3.
Olay contends the Retinol24 collection has been optimized for potency and skin penetration, while simultaneously providing 24 hours of hydration and virtually no irritation. In a usage study, 96% of consumers did not experience irritation with Olay’s Retinaol24 Night Collection.
Olay chemists have been determined to improve consumers’ experience with retinol, say band experts.
In Olay Regenerist Retinol24, “we’ve kept retinol propionate and added in retinol plus glycerin yielding our Retinoid Complex. Through product development, we closely monitored stability, potency, stratum corneum penetration. Optimized formulations are required in order to deliver stability of vitamin A (sensitive to heat, UV, and oxidation), so that ingredient remains active and penetrates into the stratum corneum,” Rolanda Wilkerson, Olay leading scientist, told Happi.
Like retinol, hyaluronic acid (HA) is another high-profile skin care ingredient that formulators love. Chemists leverage its hydrating properties in formulations across the category from prestige to mass.
“Hyaluronic acid is a well known hydrator and an amazing ingredient,” said Dr. Eleanor Bradley, skin science expert for No7.
No7 knows hydration. In fact, in a recent head-to-head study, No7 day creams were proven to hydrate better than moisturizers that cost 10 times more. The results from the new study showed that the UK-based skin care brand is outperforming its high-end competitors in the US with its popular age defying day creams—Protect & Perfect, Restore & Renew and Lift & Luminate. In this same study, No7 Lift & Luminate Triple Action Day Cream, was found to hydrates better than the US No. 1 moisturizer, according to the brand. It is formulated with Matrixyl 3000+, emblica, vitamin C, hibiscus peptides and hyaluronic acid.
Recently, the brand has embarked on a consumer-focused program to encourage US women to try No7—and if they aren’t satisfied, they can return the product for a full refund. No7 is rolling out the initiative across the country through events and education in more than 14,000 Walgreens, Target, Walmart and Ulta Beauty stores. The company no doubt hopes to tap into the success it has at home—in 2021, No7 said it sold one of its Age Defying day creams every 10 seconds in the UK.
Dermalogica’s Circular Hydration Serum is a hydrating serum that floods skin with hydration and replenishes moisture from within, according to the Unilever-owned brand. While many hyaluronic acid serums simply bind water topically to the skin, Dermalogica contends its serum takes a 360° approach by stimulating the skin’s natural hyaluronic acid production and then creates a protective film to minimize evaporation. Along with HA, key ingredients include an algae extract-infused moisturizing matrix and polyglutamic acid from fermented soy. Plant-derived sugars plus an amino acid blend trap water on skin’s surface.
Alastin Skincare added new HA Immerse Serum. The Galderma-owned brand says the serum is designed to moisturize skin at the surface, while helping to amplify the skin’s natural ability to create hyaluronic acid deep within for fuller, more youthful-looking skin over time. The brand’s proprietary Octapeptide-45 helps the skin’s ability to naturally increase its own high molecular weight hyaluronic acid production. The lightweight, fast-absorbing serum is formulated with a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid that mimics the HA naturally found deep within the skin, providing moisture 24/7 from the inside out and outside in, according to the brand.
Today’s chemists are successfully formulating products that team HA with other materials to deliver multiple benefits.
At P&G-owned Tula, for example, Bright Start Vitamin C Antioxidant Brightening Moisturizer contains hyaluronic acid as well as vitamin C and ferulic acid to brighten and improve uneven skin tone, antioxidants like Japanese mandarin and wild butterfly ginger to target uneven texture and protect against blue light and pollution, and S6Pro Complex with a signature proprietary blend of prebiotics and probiotic extracts to nourish skin. Tula says it can be used as the moisturizing step in an AM and PM routine and should be followed with SPF in the morning for best results.
A blend of hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate has been incorporated into the Love U A Latte Mask from Florence by Mills, Coral Gables, FL. Additional formula components are coffee arabica seed powder to exfoliate, and coffee seed oil, which contains caffeine and antioxidants, to help condition and soothe skin.
“When younger, a skin care routine must include basics such as a good cleanser to take off makeup before bed, daily moisturizer and sunscreen. But younger consumers have also shown a particular interest in serums addressing their specific skin care needs,” noted Colleen Fargo, vice president of product development, Florence by Mills. “As a brand targeting younger consumers, we have seen them prioritize skin care over makeup with a focus on prevention as it can help reduce or prolong the need for correction as they grow older.”
She said both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are good ingredients for younger consumers to incorporate into their routine.
Ingredients work best when they are fresh, maintains Exponent Beauty, a new entrant in the skin care segment that bills itself as a self-activated, fresh clinical skin care line.
Conceived by Liz Whitman, a former president and CMO of The Red Door by Elizabeth Arden, Exponent Beauty says that unlike traditional water-based formulas that start degrading the moment they’re manufactured, its serums maintain their efficacy. She insists pre-bottled skin care can degrade up to 40% in just eight weeks. Instead, Exponent has created a system that creates a freshly-whipped serum on demand through a first-of-its-kind precision-dosed, refillable package that prevents oxidation and degradation of famously unstable actives like vitamin C, CoQ10, and resveratrol.
“Precious actives break down quickly when exposed to air, light and water. With the Exponent Activator System, the powders never see the light of day; resulting in a controlled environment for ultimate potency,” she said.
Additionally, Whitman said the Exponent Activator System is designed to dispense the optimal active ingredient concentration to deliver clinical results without irritation in every dose.
“Controlling the dosage relieves the responsibility from consumers and ensures the results are as effective as possible. The consumer mixes the powder and hydrator right before application. We do formulate with a gentle preservative at very low levels that meet clean beauty standards in order to ensure the highest levels of safety and no contamination. The system in general, even with the mixing step, is at a lower risk of contamination than a regular jar of cream since mixing occurs in the daily dosing.”
Powder actives hold more potency compared to traditional water-based skin care formulas, according to the brand.
“The difference with Exponent is our active powders keep their potency until the instant you activate themwith our Quadruple Hydration Hyaluronic Serum. We can essentially deliver the optimal level of active ingredients every single time,” she said.
According to the Whitman, the higher the weight of the hyaluronic acid, the more it’ll sit on the surface level of the skin.
“This is why we formulate with four different molecular weights, in order to better penetrate and hydrate the top layers of the dermis. The Hydrator optimizes bioavailability and absorption of the Powder Concentrate Actives, and boosts overall hydration levels. Well-hydrated skin acts like a sponge more so than dry skin, and the four forms of hyaluronic acid work in different ways to ensure the actives provide maximum benefits. This deeper hydration also helps ensure actives get to where they need to be and also helps with lines and wrinkles in and of itself.”
At Beauty HAC, the emphasis is on astaxanthin, the UV-blocking ingredient. Beauty HAC Founder Hillary Clark noted that clinical studies have shown astaxanthin to be 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C and more stable. The same study reported that it is 800 times stronger than CoQ10, 550 times stronger than green tea catechins and 75 times stronger than alpha lipoic acid.
“Astaxanthin was on the antioxidant ‘must have ingredient’ list when formulating Beauty HAC,” said Clark. “The goal is skin that acts younger, longer. That starts with happy, healthy, resilient cells and astaxanthin plays a critical role in cellular resilience and function. We incorporate two versions of astaxanthin into our formulas. They both come from a specific red micro-alga, the difference is that they are harvested at different growth stages.”
According to Clark, the “younger” alga is found in the brand’s neck/face serum formula and the more mature or “ripe version” is found in its eye serum.
Another new player in skin care is Joos Cosmetics. This “superfood-infused” brand is inspired by fresh pressed juice, according to Founders Andrew Glass and Shayan Sadrolashrafi—the team behind hair-removal brand Wakse.
The range, which debuted in April, includes Clarifying Essence, a blend of natural extracts that clarify the skin, unclog pores and remove impurities; Superfood Cleanser face wash for everyday use; and OJ Oil Cleanser, which dissolves makeup and environmental impurities.
Joos uses cold process manufacturing, Glass told Happi. In addition, he says the team ensures that each raw material is extremely small in particle size, allowing skin to fully absorb the formula.
Moving forward, Joos plans to roll out a serum that will tackle daily skin issues such as pore size, dehydrated skin, breakouts and wrinkles, as well as several “shot” products. One is Dope Shot, which was described by Sadrolashrafi as a formula that calms inflammation, redness and swelling.
TIZO Skincare, best known for its SPF has expanded the TIZO Photoceutical range with TIZO Advanced Vitamin C+E Serum. In this formula, three antioxidants are said to work synergistically to help reduce the damaging effects of reactive oxygen species while mitigating the signs of UV damage.
“While vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid are each potent antioxidants in their own right, the combination of the three has been shown both to significantly increase the antioxidant protection versus any of the individual ingredients or the combination of vitamins C and E alone,” said Kathleen Dwyer, VP marketing and sales, TIZO Skincare. The lightweight formulation also contains retinol alternative bakuchiol.
Opulus Beauty Labs recently rolled out Glow Rituals Collection, which Founder Dr. Robb Akridge describes as a radically different approach to at-home facial treatments. Opulus is using its award-winning treatment system for the new multi-benefit facial therapies that based on three types of targeted exfoliation—chemical, enzymatic and mechanical.
Each Glow Ritual incorporates two opoule treatments that are applied consecutively. Both are freshly activated, applied at peak potency, and thermally blended for optimized skin absorption, according to the company. Phase 1 is applied as a mask or peel and left on for 20-30 minutes or overnight; Phase 2 is a cleansing formulation that enhances the benefits of the first phase, either by neutralizing the exfoliation action, increasing warmth and circulation, or gently polishing the skin.
There are three options that can be used one to two times weekly—AHA Refresh Facial, a blend of acids including 12% glycolic and multi-fruit acids, triglycerides and brightening antioxidants that exfoliates dead surface cells, followed by a soothing milky rinse; Clarity Facial, a non-abrasive, triple heat treatment that teams an enzyme-rich exfoliating gel mask and a red clay, heated cleanser; and Awaken Facial, an overnight facial followed by a kiwi micro polish to refresh and brighten skin.
This month Avène is extending its best-selling collection, RetrinAL, with a new Advanced Correcting Serum that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while enhancing the skin’s radiance. Indicated for day and night use, this lightweight serum combines bakuchiol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formula that is safe to use on sensitive skin.
“As the worldwide leader in treating sensitive skin, Avène is hyper-focused on formulating products that can soothe, calm and comfort skin while enhancing quality of life. For the most sensitive skin conditions, it is critical to formulate with only the most essential ingredients to care for the skin while avoiding any potential irritants. It takes tremendous scientific and manufacturing sophistication to develop minimalist formulas that perform while respecting the skin,” said Jacqueline Flam, chief marketing officer of Pierre Fabre, parent company to the Avène brand.
According to Flam, Avène’s rich history and success is anchored by its relationship to the dermatology community and an emotional connection with consumers.
“Today, more than ever before, consumers are turning to brands with authentic stories and professional advocacy,” she told Happi.
Telehealth platform Hims & Hers—which connects its patients to licensed healthcare professionals who can prescribe medication—has expanded its skin care collections for men and women with several new products including cleansers, moisturizer, facial oil and SPF. The line also features Hers Fast Fader Dark Spot Corrector, which contains tranexamic acid, niacinamide and azelaic acid.
According to Hilary Coles, co-founder and senior vice president of brand and innovation at Hims & Hers, the new OTC offerings seamlessly pair with prescription products to address a multitude of skin concerns.
“Prescription products are the most effective skin care agents but can be irritating for some, especially when first starting out. A well-selected arsenal of OTC skin care products will help support the overall health of skin and protect it from becoming distressed and irritated,” she told Happi.
With the expansion of the company’s over-the-counter skin care offering, Hims & Hers says it has become a one-stop-shop for customers looking for high quality non-prescription skin care and beauty items as well as dermatologist-recommended prescription treatments.
“This unique combination lets customers have a more seamless experience with their skin concerns and overall beauty wellness routines,” Coles said.
Lumin, a premium men’s skin care brand born in the DTC space, is also focused on greater accessibility. It recently expanded its retail presence with Walmart and Target stores nationwide.
“We know men want an easily accessible, one-stop shop when it comes to buying their personal care products and tend to be frequent visitors to retailers like Walmart and Target,” said General Manager Kevin O’Connell, when the expansion was announced in March. “There’s a clear distribution problem when it comes to the available skin care brands at these retailers – with a shortage of products that address specific skin care needs. With Lumin’s expansion into this sector, we’re eager to bring our premium products with affordable prices to retailers where men already frequent for their bathroom basics.”
The company says a standout feature of its products are how they feel upon application. Further, Lumin says it formulates it range to work with men’s skin, which has bigger pores, different hormones and needs more exfoliation.
Facial skin care is big business, but there’s plenty of skin elsewhere in need of care. Today’s products for body care are more complex and targeted, too.
LaRoche-Posay recently relaunched its top-selling body moisturizer, Lipikar AP+M Triple Repair Moisturizing Cream, previously known as Lipikar Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturizing Cream. The reformulated cream features ceramide-3 and La Roche-Posay’s exclusive AP+M (Aqua Posae + Microresyl) technology. Postbiotic Aqua Posae Filiformis, also known as vitreoscilla filiformis, is an exclusive, patented ingredient cultivated in the La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water. Microresyl helps strengthen the skin barrier and improve hydration.
DefenAge’s Age Repair Defensins are moving beyond the face and decolletage to all parts of the body with a new cream. The brand contends DefenAge 10 Luxe Hand & Body Cream is the first hand and body cream to contain defensin-molecules, which are clinically proven to trigger a very targeted regenerative response in the skin, stimulating the body to produce young, new skin. The formulation also contains Ophiopogon Japonicus Root extract to stimulate natural moisturizing factors, Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment to promote skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, elastin, niacinamide, squalene, panthenol and sea whip.
Bio-Oil added a new body lotion, a high-oil formulation delivered in a non-greasy, ultralight fluid format. It contains 42% oil—two times the average amount of oil in competitive products, according to the brand. Designed for use over the body including on hands, arms and legs, the SKU can be found online now through Amazon and will hit other mass market retailers and drugstores nationwide starting in July.
Taking on body skin care with a vengeance is Nakery Beauty, a new brand that debuted last month on HSN/HSN.com and NakeryBeauty.com. The range is the brainchild of HSN on-air guest Liz Folce, who was inspired by listening to the network’s mostly female audience express their frustration that they couldn’t find the same quality and variety of skin care for their bodies as they could for their faces.
“We are so accustomed to using 20 different products for all our different concerns on our face; however, our body has been seen as one size fits all with just a hydrator and moisturizer to provide all the solutions,” said Folce.
Nakery Beauty targets specific zones—breasts, butt, belly and thighs—with products that include body butters, body washes and a firming spray. Nakery Beauty also touts Boob Serum and Under Boob Deodorant.
Folce’s said the brand’s SkinFirm Body Treatment Serum is a personal favorite.
“It’s like shapewear for your skin,” she told Happi. The serum’s proprietary blend of hibiscus flower extract, caffeine and microalgae from the volcanic Island of Iceland comes in a spray format, so it can be used in hard-to-reach places.
CeraVe is also stressing the need for greater awareness around body skin care following recent findings from a survey of 54 dermatologists across 23 different countries that stressed that body skin is often overlooked compared to facial care. In the survey, 90% of dermatologists said applying a moisturizer to the body daily is important to very important for overall skin health and 87% said moisturizing the body is as important or more important as facial moisturizing.
The trouble is, dermatologist recommendations are not always reflected in patient behavior. More than one-third (35%) of dermatologists surveyed said that their patients often neglect all body parts except the face. The most often neglected parts include legs and feet (59%), neck (37%) and arms and elbows (35%), according to CeraVe.
Skipping body care can have consequences. According to Shasa Hu, board-certified dermatologist, patients who don’t moisturize daily often wait until the last minute to see a dermatologist when they suffer from pruritis or eczema/irritant dermatitis. At that point, the patient must use a prescription steroid and other more aggressive treatments to stop the flare up. She said the flare ups can often be prevented by good body skin care using fragrance-free products and a daily application of moisturizer.
“Body skin care requires daily diligence and consistency,” said Hu.
In addition to ceramides, CeraVe’s hero material, the top skin care ingredients that dermatologists recommend for the body include SPF (68%) and hyaluronic acid (39%). The survey also found that the top three most important factors dermatologist tell their patients to consider in body care products include skin barrier restoration benefits (79%), hydrating ingredients (52%) and finding products that are gentle on sensitive skin (48%).
Whether for their face or elsewhere, consumers will continue to demand smartly formulated skin care products that maintain skin health.
New Ingredients for Skin Care
Below is a list of new ingredients available from select suppliers. For more information on the ingredients, please reach out to the company directly using the email or website provided.
Botaniplex Balance SC
INCI: Glycerine, Phellodendron chinense bark extract, Chrysanthemum indicum flower extract
Percent Usage: 2-5%
Applications: Face care, skin care, body care, hair care, creams, lotions, gels, and masks.
The Botaniplex Balance line, from our partner Green Mountain Biotech, contains botanical extracts that help restore skin balance. Specifically, Botaniplex Balance SC helps re-balance imbalanced and irritated skin and scalp. You’ll see a prebiotic effect, anti-microbial activity, and anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative properties when using this ingredient.
INCI: Sodium benzoate, Zinc Acetate and Maltol
Percent Usage: Low level of use ≤1%
Applications: Wet wipes, non-woven fabric formulations, sensitive area wipes, and baby wipes.
Description: The SharoWIPES™ line, from our partner Sharon Laboratories, offers dual protection plus a unique anti-biofilm mechanism that’s readily biodegradable and vegan. Specifically, SharoWIPES™ 630 is broad spectrum, highly efficacious, and free from phenoxyethanol, parabens, CIT/MIT, and formaldehyde donors.
INCI: Bisabolol and Buriti Oil (Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil)
Percent Usage: 3%
Applications: Anti-aging, lotions, creams, masks, serums, firming and remodeling products, toning sprays, face oils, tanner products, and products after aesthetic procedures like wax-depilation.
Description: Epin’Derm, from our partner Citróleo, is a plant-based active with a unique, natural technology: the β-High Response, which stimulates the activity of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, preserving the integrity of the extracellular matrix. Its natural composition reactivates the skin’s protective processes, restores elasticity and firmness, improves texture, and non-invasively fills expression lines.
BASF Care Creations
• INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Algin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Pullulan (and) Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharides
• Percent Usage: 2%
• Applications: Any facial skincare formulation
• Description: Aphanothece sacrum, thrives in the aquatic volcanic environment of the hot springs of Japan’s Kyushu Island. This blue-green alga produces sacran, a remarkable megasugar that provides skin benefits and a distinct textural profile. Sacran is a complement to BASF’s molecular patch technology, amplifying the power of its ingredients to soothe and moisturize skin.
• INCI: C12-18 Alkanoyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
• Percent Usage: Up to 100%
• Applications: Creams, balms, sticks, waterless skin care formulations
• Description: The newest soft-solid emollient developed by BASF Care Creations, Cetiol SoftFeel, is made from 100% renewable ingredients and is a derived natural ingredient (NOI=1) acc. to ISO16128. The versatile ingredient helps to moisturize, leave a soft feeling on the skin, and can act as a clean alternative to cosmetic grade petrolatum as the ingredients have very similar sensory and occlusivity properties.
• INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Leaf Extract
• Percent Usage: 2%
• Applications: Any facial skincare formulation
• Description: Sourced from organic French chestnut leaves, Castaline supports skin’s natural functions that help reduce trans epidermal water loss, help to maintain a healthy skin barrier, and help to soothe the look and feel of extremely dry skin.
• INCI: Water (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Gluconolactone (and) Xanthan gum (and) Sodium chloride
• Percent Usage: 1%
• Applications: Any eye area skincare formulation
• Description: Seanactiv, BASF’s latest active ingredient for the eye area, comes from a sustainably harvested, organic algae, fucus vesiculosus. The highly-purified extraction has an incredible effect on the look of the eye area. In only 7 days, dark circles appear reduced, crow’s feet look minimized, and the eye area looks considerably more radiant.
INCI: Silantriol (and) Adenosine
Percent Usage: 3-6%
Applications: Serum, Cream, Lotion, Mask
Description: Adenosilane is an exciting new ingredient for pore reduction, pore refinement. It optimizes fibrillogenesis resulting in sheath reconstruction, and optimizes the fiber network around the pore. A second positioning is “Baby Skin”, reduction of skin imperfections. increased firmness and smoothness. Reduction of wrinkles and visible pores. Reduced inflammation. Adenosilane has a clinical study demonstrating the reduction of visible pores and wrinkles.
INCI: Betaine, Sucrose, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract Percent Usage: 3%
Applications: emulsions, gel type formulations and serums
Description: Based on the extremophile red alga Galdieria sulphuraria, CutiGuard CLR constitutes a refined approach to the first signs of skin aging. It transfers the adaptivity and resilience of Galdieria sulphuraria to a highly effective, natural active ingredient that protects the skin in stressful environments.
INCI: Saccharomyces Lysate Filtrate
Percent Usage: 1-5%
Applications: Face cream, serum, lotion, eye contour, mask, mist, body lotion
Description: Hydraskin is a natural, active ingredient obtained from the yeasts of the malbec grape upcycled from the wine industry. It is rich in GABA and proline, protecting skin against osmotic stress. Hydraskin restores water levels instantly and maintains long-lasting hydration for up to 72 hours. It is Ecocert- and Cosmos-approved.
INCI: Zinc Chloride (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract (and) Thymus Vulgaris Extract (and) Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Percent Usage: 1-5%
Applications: Serum, lotion, mask, spot treatment, soap
Description: Zinc Sebum is a natural, active ingredient composed of zinc peptides, cinnamon, thyme, mallow and witch hazel. It eliminates 99.9 percent of Propionibacterium acne and reduces excess sebum to treat oily skin and enlarged pores. Zinc Sebum provides hydration and a sebo-normalizing action to improve the skin’s appearance.
JD Phyto-Or 1%
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) 15-Cis Phytoene/ Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract
Percent Usage: 1.5-2%
Applications: Skin brightening, aging-well skincare, suncare, after-suncare, haircare, color cosmetics
Description: JD Phyto-Or 1% features both JD Jojoba oil and concentrated Phytoene, a colorless carotenoid, creating a novel anti-aging and high-performing active for glowing skin and hair. The concentrated Phytoene is sourced from a non-GMO fungi in a solvent-free process produced through a controlled fermentation pathway.
DSM Personal Care
Quali B – Vitamin B12 cryst
Percent Usage: 0.001% to 0.1%
Applications: Serum, Lotion, Cream, Masks etc.
Description: A naturally derived biotech pink vitamin is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, has a natural origin index of 68.7%, is Halal approved and vegan compliant. DSM’s new studies demonstrate that this vitamin calms irritates skin, protect the skin barrier and helps maintain a healthy-looking skin for a more vibrant appearance.
INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens Extract
Percent Usage: 3%
Applications: Serum, Lotion, Cream, Masks etc.
Description: An aqueous extract of the sustainable and biotechnologically produced green freshwater microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens that stimulates the skin’s own defense, protects the skin barrier, boosts collagen synthesis and restores even skin tone, against the harmful effect of blue light.
INCI: Dunaliella Salina Extract
Percent Usage: 1%-3%
Applications: Serum, Lotion, Cream, Masks etc.
Description: A globally approved, vegan-friendly, Halal certified aqueous extract of the biotechnologically produced microalgae Dunaliella salina, which is known to survive in the extreme environment of salt lakes. PEPHA®-CTIVE CB protects and stimulates mitochondria by increasing ATP levels for more radiant-looking skin.
Jiangsu JLand Biotech. Co., Ltd.
Biollagen SSE -lipo
INCI: Water, mannitol, phosphatidylcholine, glycerin, Sh-Polypeptide-123, cetyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, citric acid, xanthan gum, sodium chloride
Percent Usage: Mask: 0.05%-0.3%, lotion 0.3%-1%, essence or eye cream 1%-3%, repair 3%-5%
Description: Odorless, milky white liquid containing 3% recombinant collagen liposomes. PH: 4.5-6.5
Lipoid Kosmetik AG
INCI: Glycerin; Aqua (Water); Acacia Senegal Gum
Percent Usage: 0.5-5 %
Applications: PhytoCollagen is perfectly suitable for o/w, w/o emulsions and water-based products. Some examples are: wrinkle-smoothing eye care, skin-refining face care, body shaping lotions, restructuring lip care, color cosmetics, protecting hand care, moisturizing sun care, elasticity improving hair care, mild baby care.
Description: PhytoCollagen, a COSMOS-certified, vegan and sustainable collagen alternative sourced from the acacia tree. The award-winning ingredient combines cosmetic benefits known from animal collagen with a vegan and sustainable source, which is why it is the functional plant-based alternative to animal collagen for the modern and conscious beauty consumer.
INCI: It is a whole product line for specific INCI, please contact us.
Percent Usage: 0.5-5 %
Applications: Herbamilk Eco products are perfectly suitable for o/w and w/o emulsions. Some examples are: skin care products, e.g., body and face care or eye cleansers; hair products, e.g., shampoos or conditioners; soap and bath products, e.g., liquid soaps or shower products.
Description: To accommodate the trend of non-dairy milk in cosmetics, we offer the Herbamilk Eco product line, which combines natural plant oils and natural plant extracts with the help of hydrogenated phospholipids. The award-winning Herbamilk Eco line is a 100 % natural, plant-based milk imitation perfectly suited to create vegan milk-based cosmetic concepts.
Water Lily Pro
INCI: Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Sorbitol
Percent Usage: 0.5 – 5 %
Applications: Water Lily Pro is perfectly suitable for emulsions, as well as water-based products with thickeners / stabilizers, e.g. gels, shampoos, shower gels etc. Some examples are: Hair and bath care, i.e. shampoos, conditioners, shower gels; products with an aqueous concept, i.e. masks, tonics, serums; conditioners to protect urban hair exposed to pollution; anti-frizz hair care products; contour-refining additive for premium volume shampoos
Description: Water lilies originate from the water and symbolize beauty, purity and resurrection. This is an ideal starting point to create water-based cosmetic concepts. Water Lily Pro is a natural, COSMOS-approved substantiated extract from water lily roots perfectly suited for the daily hair care routine.
Telophi biotech ingredient
INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Bacillus Ferment
Applications: Anti-aging, Firming, Restructuring, Glowing
Use levels: 2%
Comments/attributes: A biotechnological extract obtained from a Bacillus sp. isolated from the Florida Keys, USA. It boosts and protects skin telocytes and proliferating epidermal stem cells from psychological stress, as shown in vitro, to preserve skin organization and to unlock “Phi Beauty,” or the golden ratio, restoring proportions and symmetry.
AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic (HSHO) Algae Oil
Applications: Emollient, Moisturizer
Use levels: Water-based systems: 0.5-10 wt% Anhydrous systems: 5-40 wt%
Comments/attributes: A stable and luxurious bio-based oil, created by the transformative powers of microalgae, it performs well as an emollient or moisturizer in nourishing skin and hair care products, including body washes, shampoos, baby products, sun care, bath oils and lip care products.
PemuPur START polymer
INCI: Microcrystalline cellulose (and) Sphingomonas ferment extract (and) Cellulose gum
Applications: Emulsifier, Rheology Modifier, Suspending Agent, Thickener
Use levels: 0.5 – 1 wt% as supplied
Comments/attributes: A unique nature-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilization capabilities at low use level while offering a fresh and quick break sensory. Compatible with a broad range of oils, CFDA compliant and allows for cold or hot processing enabling flexible processing requirements. Targeting low viscosity O/W skin and sun care formulations.
INCI: Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Calcium Chloride (and) Glycerin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Aqua / Water
Percent Usage: 2-5%
Applications: Intensive repair creams for extra dry skin, advanced skin-replenishing therapies, pre- and posttreatments for stressed a compromised skin, diabetic skin care and dermatoporosis treatments
Description: By restoring the calcium gradient, EpiCalsome improves the skin barrier function and reduces trans epidermal water loss, which results in a healthy, vitalized, and protected skin. An innovative technology encapsulates calcium ions in a phospholipid-based double cone structure, which makes the large and charged molecules bioavailable.
INCI: Pistacia Lentiscus Gum / Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Aqua / Water
Percent Usage: 2-3%
Applications: Advanced age-defying formulas, immediate lifting products, treatments for acne-prone skin, pore minimizing formulas
Description: NovoRetin is a plant-based retinol alternative demonstrating exceptional benefits for impure skin and strong anti-aging effects. By inhibiting CYP26 enzymes that degrade retinoic acid, NovoRetin can increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid, the active form of retinol, in the skin. NovoRetin is a natural alternative to retinol.
INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Extract (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Tocopherol
Percent Usage: 1-3%
Applications: Protective and hydrating body care formula, de-stressing body balm, replenishing face cream, hand and foot care treatments, pampering bath & shower products
Description: SLVR’Coffee is based on upcycled coffee silverskin to moisturize and comfort dry skin. It protects the epidermis from internal and external stressors as well as transepidermal water loss, resulting in improved skin barrier function. Therefore, SLVR’Coffee enhances the overall comfort level of delicate skin.
Micro Powders Inc.
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Percent Usage: 1-10%
Applications: Lotions, creams, masks, serums, oils, gels, powdered concentrates, anhydrous sticks and butters
Description: Microcare 350S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from 100% organic and sustainable carnauba wax. The spherical shape provides proven and effective soft focus effect, while the carnauba content provides long wear. In-vivo SPF testing results showed that micronized carnauba wax improves SPF performance in both organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations.
Naturebead Aqua R10
INCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Tanacetum Annum Flower Oil
Percent Usage: 1-10%
Applications: Lotions, creams, gels, detergent-based cleansers, masks, syndet and glycerin bars
Description: Naturebead Aqua R10 is a spherical exfoliating bead derived from upcycled rice bran wax and blue tansy oil. The natural aqua coloration is attributed by the rice bran wax and blue tansy oil itself, without added pigments. The 10 mesh size and pleasing color provide effective exfoliation with an attractive visual cue.
INCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Percent Usage: 1-5%
Applications: Creams, lotions, gels, serums, oils, masks, powdered concentrates, anhydrous sticks and butters
Description: Naturesoft 860S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from upcycled, sustainable and renewable rice bran wax. The spherical shape provides added lubricity and enhanced soft focus effect. As an oil binder, the rice bran wax improves aesthetics by making formulations less greasy and heavy. Naturesoft 860S also improves SPF performance in both organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.
INCI name: Undecane (&) Tridecane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions -3-25%; Anhydrous- 15-90%
Applications: Active skin care products, Skin whitening products, Anti-aging products, Acne Treatment products, Sun care products (lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners )
Description: USG-1011 is a silicone elastomer gel swollen in a volatile carrier derived from renewable sources. The elastomer gel offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils including low molecular weight organic esters and oils. USG-1011 leaves essentially no residue on the skin.
INCI name: C 13-15 Alkane (&) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions- 3-25%; Anhydrous- 15-90%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, Skin whitening products, Anti-aging products, Acne Treatment products, Sun care products( lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners)
Description: USG-1012 is a silicone elastomer gel swollen in C13-15 Alkane carrier derived from renewable sources. The elastomer gel offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils including low molecular weight organic esters and oils. USG-1011 leaves essentially no residue on the skin.
INCI Name: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (&) Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Suggested Use Level: Emulsions – 3-25%; Anhydrous- 15-90%
Applications: Active skin care products, Skin whitening products, Anti-aging products, Acne Treatment products, Sun care products (lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners)
Description: X-22-7055 is a C12 alkyl modified elastomer gel swollen in a carrier derived from coconut oil. The product has a broad spectrum of compatibility with various organic carriers. It is designed to be a multi-functional sensory enhancer with an exceptional dry, cushiony, silky, smooth feel with no residue. The elastomer gel is designed to be compatible with organic/natural formulation ingredients and chemical UV filters. X-25-7055 is an effective thickener for esters, and natural organic oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions.
INCI: Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract
Percent Use: 0.5 to 2%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging
Description: PEPTILIUM is a global anti-aging active ingredient composed of natural biopeptides purified to 95%, obtained from a co-product of a superfruit (cranberry). Combining high efficacy, transversality and safety, it targets the three compartments of the skin (epidermal barrier function, dermal-epidermal junction and dermal matrix) for radiance-boosting and anti-wrinkles effects.
INCI: Saccharomyces cerevisiae Extract
Percent Use: 0.25 to 2.5%
Applications in Skin Care: Repairing, regenerating, anti-aging
Description: REGENIXIR is a biotech anti-aging active ingredient favoring rapid and overall regeneration of mature skin. It revitalizes the cellular interconnectivity of the cutaneous, vascular, and immune systems, weakened during aging. Skin quality is improved: wrinkles and under-eye circles are reduced, vascularization defects are attenuated and the complexion radiance is revived.
INCI: Water & Withania Somnifera Root Extract
Percent Use: 1 to 4%
Applications in Skin Care: Protector, anti-stress
Description:: Obtained from ashwagandha, an Ayurvedic plant with adaptogenic properties, ADAPTONYL is a natural anti-stress active ingredient capable of acting on all the factors of cutaneous exposome (environmental and lifestyle-related). The skin quality is improved as of 14 days: smoothed cutaneous microrelief, refined skin grain, and enhanced complexion radiance.